Monday, April 13, 2015

Pansies

Are you familiar with the saying;  "Do as I say, and NOT as I do?"  Well that applies to me this week end.

I have been wanting to get a few pansies for a couple of weeks now and Saturday the sun was out, it promised to be a lovely day and I decided this was the day I'd get some.

Pansies do well in cool weather and usually a few in pots will last until late May when they can be replaced with other annuals. Plus the colors are just welcome at this time of year when everything is slow to show it's green.

So, I eagerly drove off to my favorite nursery, only to find a very limited selection, (and what they had was quite a bit more expensive then I'd been expecting).  Disappointed, I left without any and moved on to nursery number two where I met a similar situation. Not fine!

There is where my problem started.  I broke my own advice and went to the nearest big box store with a nursery department and finally I found tons of pansies.

I was soooo delighted!  I spent a long time choosing colors and filled my cart with more than I needed, but couldn't resist just one more color....  Did I ever look at root systems- no! Check for healthy plants-not really!  (They all looked delicious!)

So home I came ready to fill my pots and welcome spring to my front porch.  Then I noticed there were long roots sticking out of every pot and there were roots circling and growing out of the tops of the pots.  (I would tell anyone not to buy these, but in my fervor to buy some I'd never even noticed this pathetic condition until I got home.).


(out!)
They were so root bound that I had to cut the plastic to remove them from their little pots.  Fortunately, they were very wet which was keeping them looking good, but in that condition they had very little time for survival.

I patiently cut them out of their little pots and tried to uncircle them a little- almost impossible- so I ended up sticking a finger up the middle of the bottom of the root mass and tearing them slightly in 4 directions to try to spread out the roots before I planted them.  If you plant them the way they come out of their tiny pots without spreading out the roots they tend to continue to grow the same way and eventually choke themselves.

They're all planted now and I'll keep them watered well and hope for the best. They look OK, and I was only hoping for a month or two of color before I can plant other annuals, but hopefully you won't be as desperate as I was this week end and buy such overgrown seedlings!



Thanks for reading Julie's Garden Journal and happy spring!

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Spring Woodland Flowers

Spring woodland flowers are a special treat to winter weary eyes and souls.  I have no way to express the longing for the sight of green and the smell of fresh moist dirt, but I know I’m not alone in my delight at the sight of the first spring woodland flowers. 

The time is near.  In some places there is bare ground and the soil is starting to thaw.  If you’d like to enjoy spring woodland flowers in their native environment look for wildflower sanctuaries in your area.  There are many good ones located from Maine to Iowa and south through the Carolinas.  Many offer tours in the spring.  Bring a good wildflower identification book and your camera with you and prepare to enjoy your day. 

If you choose to explore by yourself, try to stay on paths- the ground might be very damp, and the delicate wildflowers you are trying to enjoy won’t appreciate the soil being compacted beneath your feet.

Some spring wildflowers have subtle colors and are quite tiny. The beauty is in the details so look closely, but do not pick!  Others are brilliant in their colors and exuberance and carpet whole acres of forest floor.

All have adapted to the woodland around them and thrive in dappled shade. Many will go dormant when summer arrives and the leaves from the canopy make the shade deeper, so early spring is the best time to fully appreciate them.

Some of the common spring woodland flowers to look for are bird’s foot violets, wild bleeding heart, wild columbine, coltsfoot, hepatica, trilliums (several varieties), Virginia bluebells, bloodroot, Dutchman’s breeches, Jack in the Pulpit, wild geranium, wild blue phlox, and shooting stars.
coltsfoot
Jack in the Pulpit

Jack in the Pulpit



































Many hardy ferns will also be making their appearance in the early spring woodland. To see their prehistoric looking fronds pushing up from the earth is a special treat for me.  Some to look for are fiddleheads, cinnamon fern, interrupted fern and maidenhair fern.

Many bog plants are also early spring woodland bloomers.   Look for skunk cabbage, yellow and blue flag, golden club, swamp pink, lady’s slipper, and blooming later, cardinal flower.
 
Yellow Flag
If you’d rather enjoy spring woodland flowers in your own garden, you can, but don’t obtain your plants from the wood itself.  Order them from a reputable local nursery and look for the words “nursery propagated.”  “Nursery grown” is not a synonymous term either.  That might just mean that the nursery dug it up in the wild and put it in a pot.

Before you decide to invest in spring woodland flowers and ferns it would be a good idea to make sure you have a growing environment that is favorable for their growth. In general they need moist, rich humus and filtered shade to grow well. 

Taking a walk in the woods in early spring to enjoy the spring woodland flowers is a wonderful way to spend a spring afternoon, and it might quickly become one of your favorite traditions.  It is one of mine.

If you have more time, take a road trip and spend several days exploring the many wildflower preserves and woodland sanctuaries scattered across this fine land of ours. 

Do you have a favorite woodland wildflower location to visit?  Share it with us! I’d love to promote it!

Enjoy the spring and thanks for reading Julie's Garden Journal.






Friday, April 3, 2015

Easter Lilies

Easter Lilies are beautiful and often they are given as gifts at this time of year.  If you get one, they are also easy to take care of.  Did you know that later you can replant your lily outside in the garden? Easter Lilies are perennial bulbs and with a little TLC they should adapt easily to your yard.

Easter lilies like moisture.  Keep yours damp but not drenched, and poke a hole through the pretty foil, if yours is wrapped in decorative paper, so the water can drain out of the bottom. Place the lily in a sunny window and it should be very happy.  Normal, inside house temperatures are very comfortable for Easter Lilies. 

When the blooms wilt pick them off and then when the stems of your Easter Lily die back, cut them off at the base.  Keep watering the root as usual and you may see new growth within a month.

When the outside temperature is mild, dig a hole the size of your pot and amend the soil if necessary.  Easter Lilies like soil that drains well.  Potting mix works well.  Gently remove your lily roots from its pot and loosen the roots if needed.  Replant and water.  

Use a slow release fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season and you should be good to go.  Last year I did this and was surprised when my Easter lily not only grew, but bloomed again in late summer.


Easter Lilies have a strong fragrance and make beautiful cut flowers.  Plant yours where it can get plenty of morning sunshine and if necessary treat the ground for slugs because not only are lilies pretty, they are also tasty.
(P.S. Deer think so, too!)  

That about does it.  Enjoy your Easter Lily now and then plant it and enjoy it again in your garden.

Thanks for gardening with Julie!




Monday, March 30, 2015

Spring Garden Maintenance


Garden maintenance includes all the tasks that keep your garden beautiful and prolific. Contrary to popular opinion a perennial garden isn’t low maintenance because the plants come back year after year, and gardening isn’t just about admiring beautiful flowers and eating organic produce. There is a fair amount of hard work involved in having a garden.

Another misconception is that after the third year your garden will be established and you won’t ever have to do another thing. Wrong!  There are always chores to do in a garden.  Some of the tasks may differ from year to year, but a well maintained garden is always changing and something will always need your attention and perhaps your labor to improve the situation.

Some of the routine garden maintenance tasks include planting of course, raking, weeding (everybody’s favorite), mulching, staking, deadheading, watering, pruning, training, plant division, and propagation.

Early Spring and Fall are times to rake, and my husband and I started raking both the yard and the gardens today.  It is amazing how many leaves collect around the base of my plants and in corners of the garden over the winter, but it is also very rewarding to rake away a clump of leaves and find tiny green shoots underneath just starting to pop out of the ground.
This morning I could see hardly any green at all in the garden,  but 3 hours later and two garbage bags full of sticks and leaves and this is what I saw. Isn't nature amazing?

Weeding is a garden maintenance job that could probably be done every day.  If you really hate weeding (believe it or not some people do), plant a small garden, hire some neighborhood children to help you, or change your attitude about it. 

The earlier in the season you can get out to do some serious weeding the better your garden will look all season. Now in early spring it is easy to pull out grass that has seeded close to the crown of your still sleeping perennials.  Later, your perennials will hide the pesky things and it will be much harder to find the roots.

Weeding is a garden maintenance job that could probably be done every day.  If you really hate weeding (believe it or not some people do), plant a small garden, hire some neighborhood children to help you, or change your attitude about it. 
Most stuff is barely out of the ground, but this dandelion was already growing well!

I have found if I weed about 15 minutes a day, it never gets out of hand and the smaller the weed the easier it is to remove.  Avoiding the task does not make it go away and actually can make the job a lot more tedious.

Using a weeding tool makes the job almost painless and actually a little rewarding, but you can use a hoe also for a faster job on bigger weeds or bigger areas that need weeding.
Once you have done a good job of early weeding, apply a layer of mulch.  Mulching is important for a couple of reasons. It reduces the amount of weeding that needs doing, and helps the earth retain water so you’ll need to water the garden less frequently.  It also gradually breaks down and provides nutrients to the soil.

A good time to mulch is soon after planting, but it can be done anytime.  Sometimes I wait until midsummer to mulch.  This is especially true in my cottage garden and where I’ve planted seeds.  Self seeding plants need a few weeks yet for seedlings to germinate and a thick layer of mulch would suffocate them. Mulching is a garden maintenance chore that only needs to be done once a season.  A three to four inch layer of mulch is usually a good measure of how much mulch to lie down.

Some plants like tomatoes and peonies always need support and the best time to do that is in early spring before the plants get too big and unwieldy.  Put your peony cages up as soon as you see new plant growth and add tomato supports when you plant your garden.

Other plants like delphiniums send up slender flower stalks that are easily damaged by excessive wind.  Stake these plants whenever you notice they need it.  A little preventive staking is always a good idea because nothing is more disappointing than watching a plant grow and develop a beautiful flower stalk only to have it destroyed by wind within hours of having it bloom.

Deadheading like weeding can be a daily garden maintenance job later in the season.  I like to go out every evening with my garden shears and just snip off any wilted flower I see.  This promotes new bud growth on many of your flowers. The later in the season it gets, the more plants you will need to dead head.

This is especially important to do to keep some of your annuals constantly blooming, but not all plants need it.  In fact some newer varieties are sold with a tag that says “No dead heading” needed. Sometimes I still do it though because it keeps plants neater and at a lesser risk of disease, but if you’re hoping to start some new plants from seeds, then you can skip the deadheading.  Instead, let the seeds ripen and dry out.  Leave them on the plants until you can gather the seeds or let them seed themselves in your garden.

Some other plants like poppies have beautiful seed heads and you may want to leave them to dry on the plants just because of that.  In fact, there are many plants that have interesting seedpods which can be saved and used later in dry flower arrangements.

The plants that I dead head the most are all my annuals, coreopsis,  red pincushion, rose campion, rudebeckia, cosmos, and false sunflowers.  These all produce more flowers if I consistently deadhead them.

Unless you have automatic sprinklers, there will always be some sort of watering to do in your garden.  This is especially true if you have container plantings.  Anything in a pot or hanging basket is going to dry out faster than things planted in the ground. 

In hot dry periods these may need watering a couple a times a day.  There are a few things you can do to lessen this situation, though.  First of all look for plants that can withstand a little dryness.  If you’re in love with tropical jungle plants, then I hope you realize they will need lots of water to thrive.

Look for water retaining granules to add to your potting medium, too.  There are mixes that are especially designed for container plantings and it’s probably worth the investment to buy a bag.

Using mostly native plants in your garden is a good way to reduce your watering tasks and soaker hoses on timers are awesome, but you still have to do some watering occasionally if you don’t want to lose precious plants to a hot, dry summer.

Some people have the opposite problem- they water too much and this can kill container pots rapidly, also.   Containers should always have drainage holes and if you get a lot of frequent rain, try to protect your plants by putting them on a covered porch or under an eave of the house so that they don’t drown.

Pruning is a garden maintenance job that needs doing once or twice a season.  The reason you can’t do it all at one time is because spring blooming bushes and trees usually develop buds on year old stems and branches.  If you prune them before they flower in the spring you will have no flowers that season.  Others that bloom later in the year or don’t flower at all can be pruned in early spring.  Regular pruning helps a bush to maintain shape and healthy vigor.

The most economical way to increase the size of your garden or the quantity of plants in it is to grow your own. This is a garden maintenance task that may take a little more know how than other gardening tasks but is very rewarding if you’re willing to experiment and have patience to try again if your first experiment fails.

Plants can be propagated by many methods, some from seeds, some from divisions, and some from cuttings.  As this differs with the plant you best recourse is to research each plant individually.  Many biennials will reproduce from seeds and if you want them to be blooming every season, you have to make sure that you have seedlings in the garden every season.  You can help this process along by deliberately planting seeds yourself in the vicinity of the mother plant if that’s where you want the plant to stay or elsewhere if you want it in multiple places.

Perennials can also be started from seed, but it is a slow process and requires patience, and perhaps a greenhouse (just joking, but you get the point.)  If you don’t have a good place to raise your seeds, you’re better off buying established perennials in pots that can be immediately set out into the garden.

Plant division is done on an as needed basis, but it is another task that is easier to do in the early spring.  Perennials that have died out in the middle need dividing.   It’s easy to see this now when everything is cut down.  It is also easier to remove a chunk of a perennial when it hasn’t started a lot of new seasonal growth.

After you divide a perennial, and until it reestablishes itself, you will need to water it more frequently.  That’s another reason to do this kind of maintenance in the Spring as we tend to get more rain and the temperatures are milder.

Although perennials can be divided almost anytime during a growing season, I would avoid the hottest weather, and maybe wait until flowering is over.
If you are interested in increasing the number of perennials you have plants can be propagated by many methods, some from seeds, some from divisions, and some from cuttings.  As this differs with the plant you best recourse is to research each plant individually.

So as you can see garden maintenance is never ending and we’re just talking about the growing season.  There’s a lot of clean up at the end of a season, too, but that’s a discussion for another day!  In the meantime thank you for gardening with Julie, and now   go out and tackle those weeds. Happy Gardening!



Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Bare Root Plants


Bare root plants are just that.  Often when you order perennials they arrive as a twisted mass of roots and you may or may not see any green growth on them.  Don’t panic. This is not a mistake and your plants have not died in the mail.  They are just dormant.  Mail order companies have become excellent at shipping their plants, and most likely your bare root plants have arrived when the time is appropriate for planting them. They should, however, be planted as soon as possible after you receive them.

If for some reason you can’t, though (the mail doesn’t take it into account that you have other obligations!), at least take the time to unwrap your plants and soak them for about 30 minutes if they look dry.  If they are still moist, you don’t need to do this, but you do need to keep them damp until you can plant them. 

I usually sprinkle water on the packing material they’re in, usually moss or mulch, and wrap them in paper towels which I sprinkle again and then wrap them in a plastic bag. Leave them this way until you can get them in the ground. In the meantime put them in a cool, dark place.

On the day you are planting your bare root perennials, prepare your site first.  Holes should be approximately twice as wide and deep as your roots. Once you’ve dug your hole amend it first with compost, aged manure or a mixture of peat moss and potting soil.

Now it’s time to figure out how exactly to plant the tangle of roots that is looking a little intimidating right now.  First, gently shake some of the packing material off and then carefully untangle what you can.  Look closely for any green shoots or dried stalks that would identify the crown (top of your plant).

Then try to notice if the roots are trying to grow downward or sideways.  This will help you when you’re putting your roots into their holes. Now hold your bare root plants in the hole and fan out the bottom in the way it wants to grow. Fill in with soil under and around your plant until the crown is just slightly above the surface of the ground.   Water well at this point and then add more soil where the hole has settled and to build up a dam around your planting hole.


Because bare root perennials are dormant, they can be planted sooner than container plants which is why they are shipped in early spring.  The tips (pips) of your perennials already in the ground may just be starting to peak out of the soil, and this is helpful to know so you know where you can plant your new bare root perennials.

Early spring is also a good time to divide many of the perennials that you already have.  The general rule of thumb is to divide perennials that bloom in mid or late summer now and divide early spring bloomers right after they bloom.

Perennials do not need dividing every year and some can go for long periods before it’s necessary, but you’ll probably know when it’s time.  One tell-tale sign is a plant whose center has died out, but is growing well in a ring around what was once the middle.
Another way to recognize a perennial that needs dividing is if you’ve noticed that your plant doesn’t have has many flowers as it once did.  Some perennials lose vitality after a few years and when they flower less they benefit from being split up.

Even if a perennial doesn’t seem to need it, sometimes they just overgrow their allotted space. You’re not hurting your plant to divide it. It is an economical way also, to increase the number of plants that you have. If you are trying to create a matching border of perennials this is probably a really good way to do it.

The season is upon us.  Very soon your bare root perennials will be arriving, you’ll be buying new ones in containers, or you’ll be dividing some of the ones you already own. Whatever the case, it's time to don your gardening gloves and get busy!  Enjoy!